New Whiskies

Batch 35

by
It’s springtime in new whisky corner as two Bruichladdichs, three Glencadams and a Glen Moray arise.

The cold chills of winter receding, Dave Broom is sensing spring all around, even in the whiskies he’s tasting. Among the latest releases this week are a spritely pair of Bruichladdich travel retail exclusives, three positively blooming Glencadams, and a fragrant and floral Glen Moray.

Scoring Explained

Overview

  • Bruichladdich The Laddie Eight

    Score 6.8/10
    Scoring explained >
    Bruichladdich The Laddie Eight
    Price band
    £ £ £ £ £
    ABV
    50%
    Production type
    Single malt whisky
    Region
    Islay
    Flavour camp
    Fruity & Spicy
    Nose

    Heavy cream then wet hay/sweet draff. Bright and a little floral – this is Bruichladdich after all, but not as airy as Laddie can be. In time some crisp oak and vanilla. All the way through there’s this underpinning of pleasant earthy tones, dunnage warehouse and that wonderful sweet cowshed note. Water takes things right back to barley and makes everything sweeter. 

    Palate

    Lifted and acidic to start with, then deepens and thickens. Those two elements – zesty vibrancy and heavy sweetness are always playing off each other.

    Finish

    Fat and sweet.

    Conclusion

    A surprisingly big Laddie for its age. A travel retail exclusive. 

    Right place, right time

    There’s some substance here. One of those spring days that the great Bill Callahan was inspired by. 

    Glencadam Origin

    Score 8.2/10
    Scoring explained >
    Glencadam Origin
    Price band
    £ £ £ £ £
    ABV
    40%
    Production type
    Single malt whisky
    Region
    Highland
    Flavour camp
    Fragrant & Floral
    Nose

    Typically Glencadam, which means springtime! Estery, green apple and pear drops, backed with butter(cups?) some cool cucumber and kiwi. Slightly nettley and acidic, which is no bad thing. Water calms thing down a little but without losing the intensity.

    Palate

    Texturally has the distillery’s tongue-clinging quality, backed with that green acidity which freshens and sharpens the back palate. It benefits from a drop of water.

    Finish

    Whistle clean and enlivening. A hint of elderflower.

    Conclusion

    A great lunchtime/aperitif dram which personifies springtime. Recommended and marked within its category. 

    Right place, right time

    A walk on the riverbank in blossom time. So bright and lively you need some springtime disco.

    Glencadam 17 Years Old, Triple Cask Port Wood

    Score 7.8/10
    Scoring explained >
    Glencadam 17 Years Old, Triple Cask Port Wood
    Price band
    £ £ £ £ £
    ABV
    46%
    Production type
    Single malt whisky
    Region
    Highland
    Flavour camp
    Fruity & Spicy
    Nose

    Slightly pink. In fact, it’s hard initially to get off the pink tip. There’s strawberry, rhubarb crumble, then some blueberry syrup and that estery distillery drive. Water closes it down to begin with before some rose petals poke shyly out.

    Palate

    Lightly oxidised elements to start with alongside energetic acidity, spice and a little heat. Overall, well balanced and refined. Becomes slightly smoky/charred with water before some red hedgerow fruits. Decent length.

    Finish

    Baking fruits. Patisserie.

    Conclusion

    While it needs water it’s slightly hard to hit the perfect balance. Overall a rather lovely dram. 

    Right place, right time

    There’s something slightly old fashioned about this, so here’s Sun Ra, in Chicago, in springtime.

    Glencadam 19 Years Old, Oloroso Sherry Finish

    Score 8/10
    Scoring explained >
    Glencadam 19 Years Old, Oloroso Sherry Finish
    Price band
    £ £ £ £ £
    ABV
    46%
    Production type
    Single malt whisky
    Region
    Highland
    Flavour camp
    Fruity & Spicy
    Nose

    Strangely for an oloroso finish things kick off with coconut – Lamingtons in fact (here’s the recipe)! Subtly Sherried in other words with the cask adding a little darker grunt but those fresh fruits are still showing. In time there’s marzipan and only in time do you get a more obvious Sherried bodega element which then drifts into hazelnut butter. Water makes things more brioche-like.

    Palate

    A soft, yielding start – again somewhat unexpected. The texture, also seen in Origin, is there but now with more sultana cake and dark chocolate.

    Finish

    Long and softly fruity.

    Conclusion

    As with the port, water is required but needs to be carefully handled. Very well balanced. At no point does the Sherry overtake the distillery character.

    Right place, right time

    Lively, with hidden depths. You could almost be in the Appalachians, in springtime.

    Glen Moray Chardonnay Cask Finish

    Score 5/10
    Scoring explained >
    Glen Moray Chardonnay Cask Finish
    Price band
    £ £ £ £ £
    ABV
    40%
    Production type
    Single malt whisky
    Region
    Speyside
    Flavour camp
    Fragrant and Floral
    Nose

    This is…odd. It opens with a slightly alarming note of ripe Manchego cheese which, when it leaves, reveals vestigial sulphur. The cheese returns before it suddenly opens into classic honeyed, sweet, gentle Glen Moray. Just as you think it was just a weird volatile opening note, the whole shebang starts again, so you never quite know what’s coming the next time you take a sniff. 

    Palate

    Light to medium-bodied and sadly a little thin on the palate, especially noticeable in the somewhat hollow mid-palate. Water helps to plump things up a little but not enough to save.

    Finish

    Light. Dries quickly.

    Conclusion

    Yes… odd.

    Right place, right time

    Walking past a cheesemonger’s. Let’s brighten things up with some Bill Evans thinking about spring. 

    Port Charlotte CC:01 2007

    Score 8.6/10
    Scoring explained >
    Port Charlotte CC:01 2007
    Price band
    £ £ £ £ £
    ABV
    57.8%
    Production type
    Single malt whisky
    Region
    Islay
    Flavour camp
    Smoky & Peaty
    Nose

    The by now characteristic PC note of woodsmoke, green bonfire, wormwood, tepeztate agave, and background sweetness which then leads into a dampened peat fire. The cowshed returns, but it’s made of hot adobe. Has weight and real character. With water things become more sandy with a little hint of burnt wood. 

    Palate

    Dry and prickly to start with. Immediately smoky, balanced well with distillery sweetness and enough oiliness to coat the tongue and give extra depth. Balanced, with some light honey. The palate remains sweetly muscled.

    Finish

    Long, the smoke returns. 

    Conclusion

    Balanced, precocious and really rather good. Another travel retail exclusive.

    Right place, right time

    Oaxaca in the Hebrides. In springtime of course.

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