Batch 63

Once it is allowed to breathe (be patient, Ardbeggians), this is considerably more subtle than you might expect. Ok, the peatiness is direct and dominant, but its effect is tempered by the fact that it has this slightly marine aspect, (imagine a beach after a gale), cooking mussels and clams, a hint of hot railway sleepers, white pepper, waxed leather, then lanolin. It’s a style I like, as it shows how complexity still grows in the absence of heavy oak influence. Water brings out more smoke, then wormwood and rain-moistened moss.

Instant spicy attack – that white pepper again – then a burst of peppermint/Polo mint before it turns to eucalyptus. The peat fire blazes away, but there is sufficient vanilla softness to keep things under control. Touches of calamus, then kelp, samphire, bay leaf and peat.

Dry, smoked.

Take it slow and you will be rewarded.

Safe back into harbour, he wipes his fishy hands on his jumper.

Pink, orange sunset colour. Opens with a charred note – Benromach is pretty smoky in its 10-year-old guise – but also sulphur. Just as you bring it up to the lips, you pick up some mulberry and cherry. I tried to get the sulphur to fly off, but it stayed locked in – and became amplified with water. 

The cordite continues. Frustratingly, the texture is perfect with all of Benromach’s silky softness, with hints of its floral fruitiness given an extra twist of black pepper and red fruit. Becomes grippy with water and the sulphur never leaves.

Smoke and struck matches.

Let’s just move on, eh?

Quentin Tarantino organises a Guy Fawkes party.

A little hotter than the Wemyss, but with slightly more cask elements coming through – orange and rose petal, a little cereal, sweet pea, then it opens with very subtle smoke: wood ash in a fire pit.

There’s tight wood on the start, but its influence overall is very discreet. There’s lemon leaf, then green olive to start with, and this gentle smoke that drifts away as a creamy mid-palate develops. Water balances things and brings out more structure.

Jalapeño. Light grip.  

Intense, but balanced. I like it.

A Catalan farm in late summer.

We’re into mezcal-like territory here, which is no bad thing in my book (Tobala to be precise). There’s some sweetness and pear elements, alongside dusty, green notes, ivy and horseradish, and a garden bonfire. The smoke slowly increases, especially with water, where dried sage and angelica also lurk. More mineral notes (and Brasso) in time. 

Light cereal in the front, then Caol Ila's oils and soft fruits come through. It’s pretty much done after that mid-palate burst, even though the smoke lingers. Its youth is exposed with water and becomes a little naked, apart from some parsnip-like sweetness (no, I don’t know where all these vegetables are coming from this week). 

Brine.

Fresh and young, but has real charm.

Dust on the boots, machete catches the sunlight.

Very airy and spring-like, with Rose’s Lime Marmalade, cut grass and pear blossom. There’s an intensity here which isn’t always seen with ’Rothes. In time, a light oaty (vanilla and cereal) element begins to develop. With water, there are more baked goods and the acidity is more apparent.

The vanilla element is strong and ushers in a subtle start, but just as you are enjoying the slow, subtly creamy progression there’s a sudden rapier thrust of acid, which knocks the overall balance. Water smooths this slightly.

Sharp, then nutty.

Lovely to see ’Rothes in this slightly unfamiliar guise. Though it is a bit abrupt in its shift from one element to another, I do like it – especially with water. Exclusive to the Kingsbarns distillery.

Spring breakfast on the lawn of Rothes House. 

Some citric vibrancy and chilli heat, then a touch of cut capsicum opens things, but immediately this is swept away by estery fruits: fresh pear, Russet apple. Then comes lawnmower box, dewed grass and lightly Sherried warmth rises: nuts and fruit cake mix. With water, proving dough – then the pears again.

Very gentle, fruity palate with excellent feel. Shows impressive palate weight for such a youngster. The wood is handled lightly. In fact, there’s as much creamy vanilla and soft fruits as there is overt Sherry. Already well-balanced. With water it is all about feel and, while it shows its youth slightly at the end, that’s no drawback to its enjoyment. Recommended.

Light spice.

I continue to be blown away by this newcomer; marked in its competitive set.

Cutting the grass for the last time, air filled again with spring.