Batch 65

Bang-on PX character from the off. Big, raisined, thick date and fig paste, lightly oxidised, with a slightly minty, carrot cake element that takes things in a savoury direction, heading towards brandy de Jerez territory. Things continue to deepen with time: liqueur chocolate, dark vanilla and crystallised ginger. Cask-driven, but hugely appetising. 

Continues where the nose left off: thick, sweet and rounded, again with those fig-like elements, but also an added hint of currant, chocolate brownie, cut with candied orange peel. I slightly preferred it neat.

Thick, sweet and long. 

Ripe, rich, generous and sweet. Liqueur whisky.

Did someone say crystallised ginger? Been dying to play this from The Incredible String band for ages. It comes at 04.21.

A strange fungal opening, like an old earthen-floored wine cellar, with a little touch of copper coins. Behind this is some grilled nut and a whiff of cheese. The Port is there, but it is a slightly uneasy match, to be honest, as BenRiach’s fruits are hidden by the cask. More funky with water.

Better knitted than the nose. While the nutty, oxidised elements continue, now the soft fruits and light cereal begin to shuffle forward. It seems a little tired. Water makes it tannic.

Slightly bitter.

I struggled, to be honest. 

Although locked in the cellar, at least he had his great-great-grandfather’s pipe of Port to sustain him. 

Concentrated and rich, with barley sugar and crème brûlée, grilled pineapple and an almost waxy element. Continues to develop in a hugely generous manner with a little hint of dried pine needle, but it never loses its sweetness, which slowly morphs into chestnut honey and then shea butter. More sappy with water.

As you might expect, things are wood-led here with flavours akin to an old-school, barrel-fermented Californian Chardonnay – albeit one with substantial tannins. The spirit – as rich and generous as you’d expect from Glendronach – pulls itself free at the end, adding spice, flamed peels and bergamot. With water, it shows rounded, controlled power which is just balancing things. Water accentuates the oak, so leave alone.

Light char.

Thankfully, Glendronach has the muscle to cope with this amount of wood. 

Heading into the Napa in the ’70s. 

An amazing strength for its age – and still has nose-blurring heat. Highly mature aromas of dubbined leather open up proceedings, but then recede into the background, as complex Indian Ocean scents move into the spotlight. Complex, with perfumed elements, sandalwood, hot mustard seeds, frangipan flowers and then comes a whiff of Zippo lighter. Has a lightly-smoked edge with water, alongside tarragon and vetiver. Becomes increasingly like an estery pot still rum. 

The thickness is expected. Opens to rape seed oil, then Seville orange and lightly-toasted oak. Has that perfect mix of the sweet and savoury that you should demand from extra-aged whiskies. Firms a little with water. Controlled, complex and recommended.

Long and fruity.

Hardly timorous, sleekit… or wee.

Easy Rider, set in Mauritius.

It is cask strength, so there’s no surprise that it has a hot hit, but behind this is sweet tarte tatin (with custard), then Milky Way (or, if you’re posh, chocolate mousse) and lemon. The alcohol burns off relatively quickly, leaving a gentle, appealing and softly-fruited centre. Bright and lively. Becomes increasingly creamy with water.

Tongue-clinging, with some perfumed notes and hot gorse. The alcohol adds spice, then citrus. Energetic and zesty, but in need of water… a lot of water for me. The texture isn’t damaged and the fruits can flow more easily.

Custard (with skin on the top).

While not massively complex, remains rewarding.

School puddings were always a highlight.

A mature nose, highly fragrant with dried rose petals, old beeswax and incense. Needs a little work and agitation to get it going and show its very complex nature, which mixes dried peach and apricot with coumarin and vetiver, then more tropical fruits. I dared to add a splash of water and got more of the fruits, now with a dribble of cream. A gorgeous old rancio whisky.

Medium weight. Quite syrupy, with juicy fruits coming across before it tightens slightly and pulses out red fruit acidity, then smooths once more. It might just lack a little strength (it’s right on the limit, abv-wise), but accept its relaxed, gentle, complex nature.

Orange zest and a little burst of heat.

One of those which you could smell all day, marvelling at how whisky can slowly reduce itself to this essence.

A refined old lady speaks of her childhood in Burma.