Batch 70

Smoked cream, light melon and though there’s inevitable nose burn, it also shows real freshness, with apple blossom, fenugreek leaf and Rich Tea biscuit. It becomes smokier with time, with the flames licking around dry grasses. The low oak allows more distillery character to come through. As it develops, you notice some slightly gawky youthfulness.

Sweeter than the nose, with more weight than you expect and an extra layer of roasted barley, and a fragrant mid-palate. It shows decent length and has plenty of energy. The heat is quelled with water, allowing softer elements to build in the centre: light vanilla, spelt flour.

The smoke, almost cosseted throughout, now breaks free.

A spot-on Ardmore and at a very keen price. Form a queue.

A distant prairie fire.

Immediate cask impact, mixing spice and coconut with some sweet fruits, then orange zest (and orange blossom water). Nutmeg, pumpkin, then a huge hit of stem ginger and slightly smoky oak. In time, a vegetal/mineral note akin to a vintage rhum agricole vieux begins to develop. Good complexity.

A sweet and rounded start, with honeycomb spiciness from the off – some from the alcohol, but plenty more from the spirit. It opens to light menthol, candied kumquat, apple, melon and a scented undertow. Energetic, with good balance and some structure.

Dry roasted spices, smoke and light acidity.

A crackerjack of a dram and further evidence (as if needed) of Arran’s excellence.

The pirate’s treasure chest turned out to be filled with spices. 

My sample was slightly cloudy, even when undiluted. A hugely apple-like opening, unusual for Blair Athol, then a more familiar nuttiness drifts into the background, adding a certain crispness. Opens into baked sweet fruits with light cask influence, which then softens further into peach stone. Water brings out more mature notes and a little tropical touch. 

Good mature elements, fennel and light tropical fruit. It grips a little, with the nutty background beginning to make itself noticed. In time, there’s a hint of fruit syrups and waxy rancio, but everything remains fresh, with just a little tightening on the back palate.

Gentle and quiet.

Be patient and you will be rewarded.

A bowl of old russet apples scenting a sunlit room.

Dark, Sherried (and also slightly cloudy) and a veritable nut feast. Hazelnuts on charred logs, raisin, light clove and a savoury old amontillado note. 

While there’s real heat, there’s also blueberries and a light meatiness alongside chewy tannins. It’s surprisingly drinkable given the strength (65.1% at eight years old?) and, while so cask-driven that the distillery is already virtually obscured, there’s dark chocolate, pot-pourri, big malty notes, red fruits and oxidised Wuyi tea. With water, there’s a more exotic, calamus-like element.

Slightly tart.

Bulky, but fun.

Sharing wild boar biltong with a squirrel.

Sweet and thick – almost liquorous – aroma, with set clover honey on sourdough toast, roast almond with a touch of tobacco, then dark chocolate. In time, blackberry and apricot. Becomes more oak-driven with water. 

The sweetness (and the oak) continue, but this is well-balanced. Palate-coating, with almond paste, sultana, chocolate nibs and always this sweetness, with oak-enhanced depth. Plunges into chocolate fondant, chestnut honey, light tannins. Has sufficient solidity to cope with water.

Clove and walnut.

Bold, even showy, but an appetising treat for those who like it on the bigger side.

As glossy as an Abba classic.

Mellow and softly fruity start, stewing apples and some light cereal. Becomes perfumed in time: lavender and butter icing. As it opens, you get a smear of varnish and wood oils, then damson. Dries with water. 

Calm and quite sweet start with butterscotch, ripe fruits and rhubarb. Becomes increasingly creamy, with hints of apricot and vanilla. Well-balanced when neat and, while water brings out some marshmallow, things do become almost too dilute.

Short, with sweet and creamy toffee.

Overall, very well-made. Polite and charming. Keep it short and it’s very rewarding. This has been an excellent first quartet from the new-look Milroy’s. Hie thee to Greek Street!

Cup cakes in a cabinet maker’s workshop.