Fèis Ìle 2017 Batch 2

The russet colour of a summer sunset. There’s no doubt of the American oak influence here. Slip it into a blind tasting and you might be fooled into thinking it’s a Bourbon. There’s cherry Tunes, mace, coriander, cherry stone and ginger syrup, before hard toffee and coconut come through. You need some water to break the oak-driven concentration and bring out banana chips and chocolate mousse, though in time the oak crunches back.

The wood has been retained, but you’ve now got an intriguing extra element of dandelion and burdock, thick cherry pie sweetness, more black fruits and thick cream. Big, sweet and bold with a dry mid-palate grip.

Slightly astringent.

As you might have already gathered, this isn’t the most subtle Bunna’, but while the double whammy of ex-Bourbon cask and virgin oak finish has allowed the oak to drive things, it’s fun and will appeal to the American whiskey lovers out there.

Eating cherry pie with the Log Lady.

Dave Broom

Pleasingly softly peated nose with a hint of bicycle repair kit and skidding tyre, but the fruits are there to balance. There’s a hint of nuttiness, and then almond stone and garden bonfire. With water, there’s more smoke and an increase in walnut, and a smoked ham element.

Dry smoke to start, but the distillate has sweetness while the Port cask works well, adding some red fruit and sloe elements, along with a refreshing bitter twang that just adds a subtle layer of mystery – especially when combined with a hint of resin when the water is added.

Those tart black fruits mingling with peat. Long and balanced.

Give this time to get the full rewards. 

Changing a flat tyre in the Douro Valley.

Dave Broom

Intense and slightly soapy to start with. There’s a solidly assertive oyster brine element alongside salty pebbles. Manages to combine a crisp, clean nature with some sweetness, pepperiness and a hint of blue fruits. Water amplifies the shoreline element by adding a squeeze of lemon to the oysters. More smoke now emerges, along with an earthy, darker fruit.

Smoke once more and an unexpected sparkling effect like a peaty prosecco that then shifts to that subtle blue fruit element in the centre of the tongue. Subtle and with decent length.

Smoke. Clean.

The finishing cask influence is very – surprisingly – discreet.

An oyster farmer being goosed by a drunken cougar.

Dave Broom

An immediate reminder that this is Jura as the distillery’s trademark citric hit appears as red grapefruit zest – verging on green Fruit Pastilles – before sweet toffee, ripe plums and liquorice meander in behind.

Tinned peaches and fruits of the forest interplay with floral and floury Turkish Delight. The palate is soft to start, crescendoing into black pepper, wood spice and smoke. Water teases out a slight savoury saltiness.

More soft wood spice and a lingering taste of burnt honeycomb.

Soft, fruity and rich, with a citric and wood spice bite.

Eating key lime pie in the sauna. Someone keeps adding rosewater to the steam.

Becky Paskin

This is a mix of two casks: Sherry butt and ex-Bourbon, and it is the former which takes the lead on the nose, giving a deep, fruity element with soft citrus notes and dried fruit, while some heathery moor burn touches smoulder behind. Though the smoke is slightly more upfront than is often the case with this expression, it doesn’t obscure what lies alongside: creamy barley, bay leaf, clove, salt marsh and herbs. When water is added there’s more toffee-ed American oak elements and the smoke seems to edge back. In its place comes seaside rock and a touch of antiseptic, alongside spice.

Intense and pretty hot initially. The American oak now adds a chocolate element which melds with the raisin. The smoke takes a little moment to get going and in time opens to heavier smoke and cinnamon. With water, there’s citrus and an added mineral quality, but not at the expense of Kilchoman’s thick texture. When water is added there’s more sandy elements.

Long, smoky and slightly peppery. Delicious.

Great balance and despite ‘only’ being from 2008 and 2009, it’s mature. Just lovely.

George Formby heads north.

Dave Broom

Pecan pie and nougat, plum stone and apricot skin. Fresh malt lingers in the background, while soft smoke runs through it. A faint grape must note nips at its heels. 

At cask strength it’s spicy up front, before cooked plums and rich dried fruit cake emerge beneath the heat. Then bitter lemon peel and an onslaught of smoke. The texture is thick and round, but that heat! Water softens the blow, bringing the peat to the fore.

It’s hot, and the smoke subsides very gradually, a kick of fruit cake – dusted lightly with dark chocolate shavings this time – comes back for a second wind.

Musty, rich fruit notes provide a welcome twist on the classic Lagavulin 16-year-old, but it needs water.

Eating overripe grapes on the top deck of a CalMac ferry on a blustery day.

Becky Paskin

Given how poky the alcohol level is, this is surprisingly soft and gentle. Some light spices and Laphroaig’s pine-like element. In time you get a note like dentist’s mouthwash, Oddfellows (cinnamon dust) and a Tequila-like, vegetal sweetness suggesting youth. With water, there’s smoke and mentholated pine sap, and more shoreline elements.

Hot, with this interesting mix between the mintiness and those tarry elements, with added nutty elements. Generally smokier. It actually begins to lose impact when water is added.

Lightly medicinal smoke. The dentist reappears. Clean.

Another one aimed at the approachable, easi(er)-drinking style. And while it works there’s not as much going on here as, say, with the Kelpie, Caol Ila or Bowmore 11-year-old.

A fire in a Christmas tree plantation.

Dave Broom