Batch 116: BenRiach Single Casks

Immediate wood-derived aromas, plus a scented element akin to bay rum, and maraschino (which itself is closer to the mentholic hit of cherry Tunes/Benylin cough syrup). The oak moves into a freshly-felled tree, sawmill, and wet moss followed by a prickle of bergamot and powdered rose. It really needs water and, when diluted, out comes a strange amalgam of Mozart liqueur and eucalyptus, plus more of that pine tree (which is now at the sawmill). As it develops, so does the oak, along with some citrus and banana. But really it’s all about the oak. 

Thick in texture with vanilla extract, mace and cinnamon. It’s a powerful beast with some tannic grip. The distillery’s fruits come over as fried banana and cling peaches. Inevitably your mind drifts towards Bourbon. When the water is added, there’s more of the fairground: candy floss, toffee apple, and warm cinnamon toast and a final hit of pineapple but, again, it’s oak-driven.

Lightly honeyed, then a green sappiness and more wood.

Bold and assertive, and will have its fans.

A beaver’s wet dream. Bring them back to Scotland! Donate to the Trees For Life campaign here.

There’s a surprising but fuzzily heart-warming opening of melting butter on hot crumpets, then come green and ripened banana, light sultana and punchy, peachy fruits. It grows richer, adding layers of coffee and liquorice. The Sherried elements are raised when it’s diluted, taking the aroma into that slightly sweaty, new pigskin leather area, some grilled nut, then more classical raisin – although there’s also a scattering of pine nut. Develops into a rich, mellow dram.

Big and sweet, with that buttery quality to start. The fruits break through early with apricots joining the peaches, and almonds and pistachios soaked in honey (baklava). Kumquat and neroli add a citric lift, and accentuate the BenRiach character. Thick and ripe, even with water, with powdery tannins, then some strawberry. It sweetens in development, and the bright summery fruits take on a darker hue as it opens and lengthens.

Slightly tight, and the Sherry starts to dominate. Has length though. 

Big, balanced and rather delicious.

A psychedelic journey in Anatolia.

Dense, with cooked fruits. The liquorice seen earlier makes a reappearance, while the smoke is noticeable but not dominating – it’s now got the aroma of a garden bonfire. There are touches of a sunlit, but dusty, attic and then richer black fruits begin to push forward. It gets darker without ever losing its balance. Danish liquorice and earthiness, a faint hint of rosewood and, in time, frankincense. Water closes it down a little, though the aroma of hot tiles emerges and, as it develops, the fruits return. 

The woodsmoke is subtle, but inveigles its way into every part of the mouth, adding another element to the rich and sweet (but not cloying) body. As it moves, you get those black fruits, some treacle, wood ash and a burnt quality which you can pick up from good Marsala casks. It also helps to give a drier edge and stop things getting too flabby. Water produces violet-flavoured chocolate, and iris. Complex. 

A meaty tinge.

This is a great match and bottled at precisely the right time.

Stumbling through the darkened grove to the black water lake, we enter the mysterious world of the moine dubh.

Opens with scented rosehip syrup and Turkish Delight, with woodsmoke behind. It’s the rosy, floral edge which leads, given support (and balance) by a mix of smoky draff and malt bin. The fruits are there, less pulpy than in the previous examples; now it’s the turn of red apple and smoked pumpkin. While it is slightly vinous when neat, water brings out more of the campfire aromas and this peaty element starts to take centre stage. As it develops, the smoke seems to separate itself slightly. 

A dry and smoky start with raspberry and pomegranate. Alcohol-derived heat adds a chilli-like bite. The smoke is bold and the effect, initially at least, is slightly blunt. Water makes it sweeter, with better concentration and the characteristic peach (and now mango) begin to mingle with the red fruits. Quite unctuous.

The Port and the fruit come together, with a slightly tarry/rubbery edge and a whiff of sulphur (though not off-puttingly so).

A bold and juicy cask for peat lovers.

Late-night tales around a summer campfire.

There’s more smoke here – now we have a blazing fire – which makes things seemingly drier on first nosing. This example, however, has a fruitier and fresher edge: red cherries, lingonberry and that pomegranate. This adds drive, and a touch of sweetness, behind which is smoke, and some sweet wood ash. It needs a little time to settle. Watering shows black grape, then a new sooty element and some charred herbs. Polished.

Medium-weight and quite sweet. Once again there’s some rosehip syrup, but this is now accompanied by hawthorn and rowan berry jelly, while the smoke kicks in from the mid-palate onwards. This mix of sweetness, acidity, smoke and a light grip of tannin gives great balance and complexity. Water accentuates its supple nature and pulls out rose petal and raspberry.

Smoky and long.

The key here is integration and balance. The cask is supporting, not dominating, the peat playing an accompanying role. 

Flames in an orchard.

Huge colour and, not unsurprisingly, this is Sherry-led rather than oak-led: sweet oloroso with a slight leathery element in the back. The smoke is there alongside black cherry, some orchard fruits and then chicory/acorn and just a tiny hint of sulphur (again, not obtrusive). The meatiness seen on the Marsala is now raw meat (a freshly-skinned rabbit springs to mind for some reason), along with bay leaf and smouldering wood. Water pulls out a slight hardness, while a rubbery thing develops over time (though again it’s in the background).

As the nose suggests, this is bold and cask-driven, but importantly the BenRiach sweetness is retained at its core. The flavours become more scented, with added incense, but the distillate holds on (just), resisting the grip of a pretty forceful cask. Water adds some sun-dried peppers and, as it develops, the tannins ratchet up the pressure.

Long, ripe, with some barbecued pineapple, paprika-seasoned meat. Smoke.

A powerful personality, but for me this is a bit of a battle – and it’s ‘only’ 10 years old.

Comes at you with promises, then whisks them away. It’s the Undisputed Truth.

Lighter in terms of smoke and cask influence. There’s more of the cigar box and wispy smoke from a fine puro cigar. The oak gives balance, but allows secondary aromas to develop: treacle toffee, dried mint and, with water, briar fruits, a herbal element and fir branches put onto the fire. As it develops, you get light raisin and chocolate underneath. It has weight and some grunt, but is restrained at the same time.

Expressive and more subtle and layered than #101, this is for those who like their Sherry casks to give support, rather than being the main feature. This then allows BenRiach’s more aromatic side to come forward and be tweaked into new shapes. There’re roses once more, along with light leather, smoke, some myrrh and clove – and surprisingly a touch of pear drops as it develops. Water shows great balance as the wood moves towards sandalwood. It retains its sweetness and supple tannins.

Long, then menthol and camphor.

The same type of cask, filled with the same spirit – and you’d imagine at the same time as #101 – yet so different. It seems to combine the positive elements of everything which has gone before. Recommended.

A contemplative cigar at the end of a long day’s tasting.