-
- Price band
-
£ £ £ £ £
- ABV
- 40%
- Production type
- Single malt whisky
- Region
- Speyside
- Flavour camp
- Rich & Round
- Nose
Dusty malt and oaky vanilla. There’s a soft quality akin to a blended Scotch, then the signature Glenallachie fruit: red apples, pineapple leaf, unripe banana.
- Palate
Fruity, but the oak dominates. Vanilla takes over (Madeira cake), alongside a soft background layer of spice.
- Finish
Soft and spicy, but bitter and thin.
- Conclusion
It’s an easy drinker – sweet, soft and smooth. A perfect beginner malt, particularly for £20 a bottle.
- Right place, right time
Mary Berry’s (whisky-laced) Victoria sponge jostles with Paul Hollywood’s apple pie for first prize at the bake-off.
- Price band
-
£ £ £ £ £
- ABV
- 46%
- Production type
- Single malt whisky
- Region
- Speyside
- Flavour camp
- Fruity & Spicy
- Nose
A zingy and light fruit salad of a dram. Fresh fruits dominate – think lemon zest, mango and lychee – but are peppered with green/yellow Starburst, Skittles and pear drops.
- Palate
It’s refreshing and vibrant, the tropical fruits taking a turn toward green apple skin. Bitter, charred oak and malt grist provide weight and some dryness, as deeper vanilla tones deliver the bassline.
- Finish
Dry and long.
- Conclusion
A beautiful example of Glenallachie’s delicate, fruity distillery character.
- Right place, right time
One of your five-a-day, a practical source of Vitamin C.
- Price band
-
£ £ £ £ £
- ABV
- 58.3%
- Production type
- Single malt whisky
- Region
- Speyside
- Flavour camp
- Fruity & Spicy
- Nose
Warming toasted oak and wood spice tones, complemented by lush forest fruits, before more delicate fruits – sherbet lemons, candied pineapple. It’s also a touch prickly, with some crystallised ginger and cinnamon peeking in toward the end.
- Palate
The spiciness practically bops you on the nose, as an undercurrent of black tea leaves and blackcurrant jam on wholemeal toast moves in and takes control. Lighter and bitter fruit notes – dried citrus peel, orange pith – pick up the rear.
- Finish
Surprisingly soft and delicate, considering the aforementioned spice. A little smoke carries it on.
- Conclusion
The Sherry butt used has taken Glenallachie in a rounded, luscious direction. Is this really only eight years old? At 58.3% abv it can take water well.
- Right place, right time
- Price band
-
£ £ £ £ £
- ABV
- 52.4%
- Production type
- Single malt whisky
- Region
- Speyside
- Flavour camp
- Rich & Round
- Nose
Extremely perfumed – the banana skin, cooked peaches and rose petal practically leap out of the glass; a surprising combination. It calms after a moment in the glass, revealing richly caramelised tarte tatin, vanilla, toffee and soft baking spice. Cigar tobacco wafts by.
- Palate
It’s a bitter start, then soft fruits and tannic red wine. A rush of dark spices suddenly evolves into a rich, warming, full-bodied and intensely fruity palate. Becomes slightly rubbery with water, so don’t add it.
- Finish
The richness subsides gradually (very gradually), carried by soft smoke.
- Conclusion
An intense cigar malt, with layers of fruit and spice built by spending eight years in a Château Lafitte cask.
- Right place, right time
In deep reflection as the sun sets over Bordeaux rooftops.
- Price band
-
£ £ £ £ £
- ABV
- 52.6%
- Production type
- Single grain whisky
- Region
- Lowland
- Flavour camp
- Rich & Round
- Nose
Quite closed from the off, but time coaxes out dark, rich fruit, such as grape must and prunes. Dark sugary treats emerge as it warms – muscovado sugar, molasses and dark treacle, rounded off with amaretti biscuits dusted with icing sugar. There’s a sulphury undertone.
- Palate
Thick and spicy. Caramelised (burnt) sugar, spicy gingerbread and rich fruit cake (complete with marzipan, of course), sticky toffee pudding with a thick layer of treacle. Water just encourages that rubber note.
- Finish
Dry, lingering.
- Conclusion
Maturation in a Sherry butt has coaxed out an indulgent side of North British.
- Right place, right time
Hiding in the pantry eating left-over birthday cake.
- Price band
-
£ £ £ £ £
- ABV
- 52.9%
- Production type
- Single grain whisky
- Region
- Lowland
- Flavour camp
- Fragrant & Floral
- Nose
Milk chocolate-coated raisins, crushed walnuts and clotted cream toffee, then a hint of damp newspaper. Water reveals a sweet floral character, vanilla and soft oak.
- Palate
All the toasted sweetness: caramel popcorn, toasted brioche and buttered white toast. It’s sweet, but with grip and a slightly damp wood edge. In time there’s Calvados and toffee apples. Water releases some wood spice, softening the bitterness.
- Finish
Crisp and toasty.
- Conclusion
Sweet with good grip.
- Right place, right time
Returning from a forest funfair, fingers sticky from candy floss and popcorn.
With Dave Broom off on his summer hols, this week’s batch of new whisky reviews comes from Scotchwhisky.com editor Becky Paskin, who discovers three alternate personalities of recently-sold Speyside distillery Glenallachie.
First up is a no-age-statement official bottling, one of just a few released in the distillery’s lifetime. Glenallachie Distillery Edition is the distillery’s final bottling from owner Chivas Brothers, which is in the process of selling the Moray site to former BenRiach owner Billy Walker. Sweet, fruity and malty, it’s evocative of first-class baking (something Mary Berry would be proud of).
The following two Glenallachies have both been bottled as eight-year-olds, but couldn’t be more different in style. Duncan Taylor’s expression exudes buckets of distillery character – delicate fruits and malt – while North Star Spirits’ take moves in a spicier, more indulgent direction thanks to maturation in a Sherry butt. Three very different sides to one of Speyside’s great, yet mostly unknown, distilleries.
Paskin then moves ever so slightly east towards Dufftown, and an overtly-perfumed Cadenhead bottling of 20-year-old Glendullan, which she finds rich and full-bodied, having spent eight years ‘finishing’ in a Château Lafitte wine cask.
Finishing the round are two independently-bottled expressions from Edinburgh grain distillery North British. First up is a sweet and spicy, yet disappointingly rubbery, 25-year-old from Duncan Taylor, which evokes memories of sneak-eating birthday cake.
Finally, a 21-year-old North British from North Star Spirits takes on a decidedly toasty, fruity, yet vanilla-centric character, teasing out a playful side to the Lowland distillery.