-
- Price band
-
£ £ £ £ £
- ABV
- 46%
- Production type
- Single malt whisky
- Region
- Islands
- Flavour camp
- Fruity & Spicy
- Nose
Medium weight. There’s some chocolate-covered orange, which is given a drier edge by a bran element, before some cow breath sweetness emerges, closely accompanied by honey-sweetened camomile tea. Water gives an extra red fruit sweetness and more of Arran’s signature sweet citrus peel.
- Palate
Soft and quite fruity to start. It has a lovely weight for its age and a juicy (unfiltered) apple juice-like quality on the mid-palate, while the citrus buzzes. In time, you pick up some coffee cream icing (perhaps from the cask). Spicier with water.
- Finish
A tiny bit of heat. Sweet nuttiness adds some length.
- Conclusion
Very well-balanced and, if not immensely complex, a really sound Arran.
- Right place, right time
A distracted hoverfly in the apple orchard.
- Price band
-
£ £ £ £ £
- ABV
- 50%
- Production type
- Single malt whisky
- Region
- Speyside
- Flavour camp
- Fragrant & Floral
- Nose
Intense and fine-boned with a powdery hint of narcissus and freesia. Then comes a sweet note akin to carrot tops and freshly peeled parsnip, and a tiny nudge of smoke before it rounds out with some (just) ripe white peach. When watered down, things become a little edgy, with added fresh white linen.
- Palate
Fairly sweet and estery. The florals return alongside some green pear, before things soften in the mid-palate into apricot and everything clenches together. Though things are quite tense, with water there’s still some gentle lemon accents along with a hint of smoke and dust.
- Finish
Short and slightly fragile.
- Conclusion
Distilled in 2009. This has decent balance for its relative youth. Great to see a distillery extending its portfolio in this way. Keep your eye on this.
- Right place, right time
When you were young, you were the King of Carrot Flowers:
Part 1
Parts 2 & 3
- Price band
-
£ £ £ £ £
- ABV
- 48.2%
- Production type
- Single malt whisky
- Region
- Highland
- Flavour camp
- Rich & Round
- Nose
A so-wrong-it’s-right stinky funk is the first element to be triggered – leather, cheese rind, then gravy browning and ’dronach’s sweet, warm turned earth. Things are given an added twist as dried raspberries/tayberries emerge in the autumnal woods. Heavy, yes, but there’s always rich sweet fruits tinged with this animalic element. A drop of water brings out more cheese rind and heavy velvet drapes.
- Palate
Slow and relaxed, showing pretty classy restraint. Everything is suddenly glossy and polished, the tannins are soft, there’s added marmalade and molasses. Water softens things still further and brings out clootie dumpling/spotted dick (take your pick).
- Finish
Complex and richly fruited. Scented peels and incense. Long.
- Conclusion
A powerful, elegant Glendronach.
- Right place, right time
An urbane old gentleman smoking a fine Cuban cigar.
- Price band
-
£ £ £ £ £
- ABV
- 46%
- Production type
- Single malt whisky
- Region
- Campbeltown
- Flavour camp
- Rich & Round
- Nose
Big, lavender-scented polish mixed with scented candle, patchouli, rose and Turkish Delight. Then comes baked fruit, along with highly-polished furniture. The oloroso finish pokes its head up with water, along with a more overt waxiness and some butterscotch toffee.
- Palate
It’s this waxiness which comes to the fore on the tongue, while the heavily scented elements recede slightly. There are heavy, juicy fruits, peach jam and a Tokaji-like oxidised note. Bold, but well-balanced. In time, a dry, winnowed wheat element adds a touch of dryness before the oloroso kicks in. I’m not sure it needs water – it certainly doesn’t need a lot – but its addition does help to spread the thick fruits more evenly across the palate.
- Finish
Long and juicy, with fresh spice on the end.
- Conclusion
According to the label, this has been ‘gently matured’, which begs the question what vigorous maturation might be like. That aside, this is a mature, balanced and pleasingly funky drop.
- Right place, right time
Relaxing with a herbal cigarette in an aristocratic hippy pad. Dark Star begins. By the time The Dead have finished, so is the bottle.
- Price band
-
£ £ £ £ £
- ABV
- 51%
- Production type
- Single malt whisky
- Region
- Islands
- Flavour camp
- Rich & Round
- Nose
Quite oily wood greets you, with an added vinous element reminiscent of cherry-like red fruits. There’s good depth – leather, saddle soap, treacle, alongside bitter chocolate that slowly gives way to walnut bread, then brown banana and, with water, malted milk.
- Palate
Rounded, thick and pretty sweet. The flavour starts like a half-melted Milky Way, then the cereal gives a crunch to the mid-palate, before heavy red and black fruit syrup softens things once more and adds length. It can cope with a little water, which pulls down the alcohol, accentuates this balance between the crisp cereal and the rich dried fruits.
- Finish
Raisined and long.
- Conclusion
There’s a mix of wine and Sherry casks being used here, but it never tips over into jammy fruit juice territory. Layered and complex.
- Right place, right time
Uncle Monty’s wine cellar?
- Price band
-
£ £ £ £ £
- ABV
- 59.6%
- Production type
- Single malt whisky
- Region
- Speyside
- Flavour camp
- Fruity & Spicy
- Nose
This opens with a heathery/scented grass-like aroma that flirts with pot-pourri, before it dries into hazelnuts in a hessian sack. Then things soften once more as muguet makes a move forward. Strangely, it then dries again. With water there’s silage, old apples and a touch of glue.
- Palate
Touches of dried fruit and spice – given extra volume by the strength. Then comes almond milk and a plump, rounded and slightly creamy, almost banana-like quality mixed with almond milk. As is typical with Tormore, things then dry suddenly.
- Finish
Creaminess, lemon zest, then the cereal crunch.
- Conclusion
A paradoxical malt, but with charming spots.
- Right place, right time
Aimlessly wandering around a Highland craft emporium.
There’s a fragrant, fruity theme through this week’s batch of new whisky reviews, as Dave Broom explores expressions from Speyside, the Islands and Campbeltown.
GlenDronach claims that its latest release is a ‘whisky fit for a Kingsman’, but does it attract a score worthy of its own Oscar?
Benromach’s burgeoning venture into triple distillation is also studied this week, and returns with an encouraging verdict on its future potential.
Community is at the heart of Jura’s One and All release, a 20-year-old edition from the island distillery matured in Sherry and wine casks that displays complex layers without tipping over into sickly jamminess.
An 18-year-old release from Glen Scotia provides a waxy, fruity and heavily-scented experience, while two youthful yet ‘charming’ and ‘balanced’ independent bottlings of Arran and the rarely-seen Tormore distillery from Gordon & MacPhail represent good value for money.