Batch 129

Very sweet (a persistent theme with the whiskies this week), therefore also very Glen Moray. There’s hints of lychee, some golden syrup, Williams pear, and some elderflower. In time, there’s more of a floral, freesia-like element and some more weight, with the sweetness sitting underneath. Water adds some light straw, then more of the cordial elements.

Sweet again, and fairly hot, but with lemon meringue pie. The high alcohol (and low cask influence) accentuates the acidity. Light, but rather good. It needs a fair bit of water to balance but, while you want to dial down the heat, you also don’t want to lose the perkiness, which now moves to lemon and ginger.

Neat is hot, but spicy and lightly acidic with water.

Spring has come early! A cool aperitif. Chill it down.

Sugar sandwich, white bread, butter.

As pink as dentists’ mouthwash, with briary fruits and woodsmoke (so it does what it says on the label). There’s also hints of wet wool, some cherry pie and, while the smoke initially has the upper hand, this reverses itself as you let it breathe. That said, it seems light for a GlenDronach. Water brings out drier notes. Pleasant.

A light smoked effect over some gentle, fleshy fruits with some cranberry and strawberry to the fore. Soft, creamy and balanced, albeit quite light on the mid-palate.

Soft, simple and easy with light smoke.

A diversion for GlenDronach and, while well put together, it doesn’t excite.

‘I wouldn’t have believed it if I hadn’t tasted it.’

Rich and almost liqueur-like, with rich, soft fruits, stewed apple, apricot, some rhubarb and light oak with a hint of char. In time, a light green apple element adds bite. Water brings out drier elements, but there’s depth here and a mature leathery element as it grows in the glass.

That gentle maturity is seen on the palate from the off, but the chilli pepper heat is quite abrasive. When it is softened with water, there’s a Demerara-like softness alongside those soft fruits.

Hot when neat. When diluted, some bitter chocolate comes through.

More maturity showing than the Glenmo’ [see below], but in a similar camp. Recommended.

Eve’s pudding with custard.

Quite rich, with excellent distillery character with lots of sweet citrus and passion fruit, some stewed peach and melted chocolate – like walking into the warmth of a pâtisserie on a cold day. In time there’s a light musky element, along with some heavy orchid house aromas, some tonka. In time and with water, more of a pot still-like juiciness comes through. Showy and almost ostentatious, but there’s just enough controlling steeliness. With water there’s vanilla ice cream with red berries and mint.

Soft and yielding, with light barley sugar, some buttery elements and more red fruit – raspberry especially. Though thick to start with, it’s a little light on the mid-palate. The addition of water helps to fill the mouth and adds some caramel toffee and more fresh fruits.

Light oak and bitter spices.

Finished in French sweet wine casks, this is a decadent dessert dram. A cousin to the Glengoyne.

Everything’s fresh today!

Robust, full and mellow with hot cross bun, rum and raisin, and mince pie filling (raisin, sweet spice, candied peel, crystallised ginger), then set honey and, in time, some smoke. Dilution brings out more smoke, some light Parma Violet and cedar-like cigar box elements.

A glossy, and smoky, start and, like everything this week, sweet. It has a soft, silky texture with just enough tannin to add grip and balance. There’s orange zest, then liquorice and dark chocolate. Chewy and round. The water pulls all the elements together, bringing up some vanilla and then a dive into dried and cooked black fruits.

Clean with some smoke. Lingering, with raisin and liquorice.

Aged in ex-Bourbon, then finished in PX and hailing from an undisclosed Orcadian distillery. Guess which one. Highly recommended.

Mince pies, Terry’s Chocolate Orange? It’s the bottom of your Christmas stocking (next to a peat fire).

This opens with Pulteney’s wilder – or shall we say bracing – side. Lean and spicy, with sumac and the tempting aroma of a freshly-opened bag of cider vinegar and sea salt crisps. In time there’s some lemon (with pith) and a green, celery-like edge. Then it starts to mellow and show more mature edges, with more cask and weight. Water shows oxidised notes, a hint of cask and toffee.

Oily and, yes, sweet. Classic Pulteney in the manner in which the oiliness gives a slippery, mouthcoating texture. There’s some white chocolate ganache elements, then an almost burnt cereal, ale-like element before it sharpens on the back-palate. Add water to make things soft and to accentuate the oils, as well as more lemon to add freshness and balance.

Salty.

A very intriguing Pulteney. Worth seeking out.

After the obligatory New Year’s Day walk along the cliffs, we seek refuge in the pub.