Fèis Ìle 2018 Batch 2

Sweet orchard fruits – conference pears and green apples – and zesty, vanilla-accented citrus notes – lemon meringue, lemon curd. The smoke is light, lending support to a sweet oakiness and hoppy top note. Dusty malt.

Bitter lemon peel and a warming smoke. It has a lovely, creamy sweetness and malty character – lemon meringue pie with a buttery biscuit base. The bitter peat smoke pulls through continuously, while wood spices and alcohol heat build over time.

Spicy, biscuity and smoky.

Kilchoman has developed gradually but, although this is the distillery’s oldest release so far, it’s still youthful and vibrant.

It’s a Bitter Sweet Symphony.

The top notes come first – uplifting and fresh citrus peel, lemon zest, spearmint and a tarry smoke. As it settles in the glass, the dried fruit emerges, as does a salty, meatier quality. A crunchy maltiness pulls through the aroma.

Lovely viscosity, more lemon zest and stewed apples, with a medicinal tar flavour – almost mentholic – and sandy. Beneath the fresher tones and layer of smoke (charred pineapple) is a meaty bass line of cured ham, with sweeter notes of sultanas, raisins and toffee.

Oily, smoky and lingering.

A classic Lagavulin, although not its best festival release. There are layers, but make sure you take the time to sit on it and let it develop properly in the glass.

Looking out on Dunyvaig Castle, listening to the gentle waves below. Careful: an experience like this can become an Obsession.

Up front is a soft, yet very noticeable wood smoke, accompanied by dry hay and sawdust. It takes a while for the fruits to emerge, but when they do they are light and white: unripe nectarines, grape must, gooseberry. There’s a floral element too – white musk body lotion – and a sweet nuttiness, like hazelnut praline and salted butter.

Immediately salty, but also simultaneously vanilla-sweet and viscous. Dry, buttery and salty fino Sherry notes sit on the sides of the tongue, as wood spices build over the palate. It’s around eight years old – and has spent two years in a fino cask – so is still lively and youthful. Gooseberries and fizzy grapes dance away, while a touch of tannic oak, hazelnut and bitter walnut skin add grip. Water softens the palate, but fails to bring out any more fruit.

Big smoke and more sweetness.

An aperitif whisky, one for a sunny summer afternoon with a cube of ice.

Sipped with some cubes of manchego cheese in the Summertime.

Marine-like, dried kelp and hot sand. Bramble jam, juicy sultanas and golden buttered toast. There’s a viscosity even here – olive oil and salty black olives – and a crisp, peated maltiness.

Coats the mouth with a heavy thickness, weighed down by more jam on wholemeal toast and a heavy, charred smoke. There’s a medicinal, herbal fruitiness – Calpol and cherry Tunes – with black pepper and soot. Water brings out a bitterness and intensifies the smoky charcoal.

Long, smoky and just delicately fruity.

A vatting of the last five casks of Port Charlotte from the first year it was distilled at Bruichladdich. There’s some red wine influence in here, but it’s not overpowering in the slightest.

Jam sandwiches in a Seaside rock pool.

Ever stuck your nose in an active Sherry butt? Lots of dry oloroso character – baked figs, prunes, black treacle, stewed Bramley apple and sultanas. Freshly baked gingerbread. The smoke is delicate, barely perceivable, but there is that signature Port Charlotte tarry medicinal character.

Punchy wood spice and thick, thick Sherry. Fruity Fig Rolls, ripe strawberry jam. It’s a wee bit hot for me without water and dries the sides of the tongue. Just a drop reduces those spices and creates a creamy sweetness – soft muscovado sugar, dates, Sunmaid raisins. Old shoe leather now, a polished oak table.

Musty old Sherry and leather. Enough smokiness for days.

Rich, smoky and extremely moreish.

I like Big Butts. Yep… Baby Got Back.