Batch 165

I mean, it’s hot – 60.1% after 20 years! – but we’re pretty much instantly into a world of mature oiliness which nods politely to cedar, then there’s a burst of dried mint which in turn deepens, yet sweetens, into After Eight chocolate, then sugared plums. Things then settle into a heavy, fungal moistness that brings to mind old dunnage warehouses, before a further development ushers in sourdough starter, Dundee cake and waxy rancio. Water adds extra depth, driving the aromas towards leather, wet tweed and oak.

Roasted cereal elements to start with alongside rich wood tones, some black fruits and, retronasally, woodsmoke on clothes. The oils help to dampen down the heat. Water brings out summer-warmed grasses, waxiness and in time complex layers of brown cheese and Vegemite on buttered sourdough toast.

Long and waxy. Mature.

A slow, expansive whisky which is strangely old yet new at the same time. Happy 20th birthday, Benromach.

Sugar plums dancin’? You've Got My Mind Messed Up in the right way.

Light in colour, this has a fresh aroma of grass clippings, bamboo shoots and a new cask with newly-painted ends. There’s a lime-like element alongside some pineapple chunks, young leaves, green apple and toasted oats. While this estery element is retained when water is added, there’s also a surprising whiff of spray paint.

Quite different to the nose and though still light and with some bite, there’s now some cream and rather lovely peachy elements (but no smoke to speak of) which begin to shift towards tropical fruits when water is added.

Guava and green banana.

Even after all this time, you get the sense that this is still finding its feet. Those tropical notes are tantalisingly just out of reach. Casks, eh?

Chewing a stalk of grass and thinking that it's not easy Bein' Green.

A light bready quality with added warm felt, citrus peel, ginger and chocolate, and a slight drift of woodsmoke. In time there’s barley sugar sweeties, orange honey, black butter and toasted almonds, while water brings out sesame seed, green banana peel and a tiny metallic edge. Seems to fall off quickly.

A sweet start with some ripe fruit that mixes tayberry with orange zest and light smoke with a creamier mid-palate. Things do remain light, however, with a green note nagging away underneath. With water you pick out some ashy smokiness and lemon, then things finish quite speedily. Seems to run on two parallel tracks.

Again just a hint of smoke, then podded broad beans.

There’s nothing wrong with this. Equally, there’s nothing to get excited about either.

A story of Two Wolves.

Although this is at 40% abv, there’s an immediate edginess to the nose which is lighter and leaner than the Wolf, and brings to mind freshly-cleaned linoleum, peat ash, hay barn, dusty sacks, then green grapes and unripe pineapple (similar in many ways to the Cadenhead bottling above) backed with pencil shavings. Water adds more depth and brings out an earthy, almost fungal quality and greater warmth.

Still light, but now sweeter with a little more substance – think pine honey dribbled on Greek yoghurt. Things remain soft with some white mushroom before a raciness begins to take charge. Water doesn’t dissipate this sparky energy.

Spicy peppercorn/ chilli chocolate.

While I imagine this isn’t aimed at old school lovers of Highland Park, I do wonder who the target here is. Am I the only one who is completely lost as to how many Highland Parks are out there?

In old shoes not realising that this is The Modern World.

The darkest of the new trio with more overt Sherried elements, Morello cherry and black fruits. There’s even some slightly funked-up qualities: think dubbin wax on leather boots, black cardamom, dried citrus peels, treacle scone with butter and a light sootiness. There’s some complexity here. Water brings out light lanolin, some raisined sweetness (PX-like) that shifts towards pot pourri and floor polish.

A soft start, which if I’m being honest is almost too soft, making the effect slightly gloopy, albeit with a buzz of alcohol at the same time. The ripe black fruits dominate the mid-palate but water hollows out the centre, so I’d leave neat.

To be fair, things pick up here with baked plums, peach, dried raspberries, and low smoke.

Robust and warming, this is the most rewarding of the animal-themed trio, especially on the nose, but the lack of structure knocks it back. Still, if your preference is for whiskies which are soft and ripe then this is right up your street.

Spiralling up, there’s an Eagle In Your Mind.

Here is the most overtly smoky of the original bottlings and the most classically framed. There’s slight heat, then a big coffee butter icing element, followed by dried fruit, Madeira cake, light liquorice, currants (dried and black), raw chestnut honey and a whiff of paint. Give it time to find extra depth: dried plums, baked apple and raisins. The fruits fade slightly when water is added, but there’s more of the spent fire and smoke, so it depends on your preference.

A mix of dried fruit and toffee to kick off with. This isn’t afraid to show a (supple) tannic backbone which is balanced by peels and dried fruit. It picks up a layered quality in the mid-palate with dark damson jam elements mixing with smoke. 

Complex, sweet and smoky.

Call me a bluff old traditionalist, but this is what I want – and enjoy – in Highland Park. The best of the bunch.

A warm and smoky hug which reminds me that, no matter what, I Can’t Escape From You.