Batch 180

There’s this whiff of a just-lit peat fire with slightly damp socks drying around it, then a cereal note (malt bins) and a seafood platter draped with seaweed. There’s also a sense of some muscle behind what initially appears to be a smoky yet insubstantial dram. With water, you pick out bacon bits and the depth starts to show along with a mix of dry grasses and sweeter fruits.

There’s a cough and a catch of dry smoke before the sweet, head-clearing sensation of a mid-sermon peppermint, then sugared plums before the smoke re-emerges. Has good length and, once again, water shows its fat centre.

Clean and smoky with a mineral crispness.

The smoke and the mid-palate softness makes this ideal Highball material.

Be prepared for some Fire and Brimstone.

A mix of porridge and salt – how Presbyterian – backed with light lemon peel and smoke hanging like a sea fog (or haar) over the coast. As the aromas gain momentum so you get amber malt, peanut oil, a corrective touch of lipstick and dried flowers, while with water there’s a firmer edge as younger elements start to protrude.

Good, quite oily feel and with the slight edginess you get on the nose seemingly left behind, you’re left with this unctuous texture alongside low smoke (it’s finished in peated casks), apple, orange zest and sel gris. While things remain in this more developed area than on the reduced nose, the feeling is of a journey started rather than a destination reached.

Bracing and saline, then a hint of smoke.

An easy afternoon sipper and never discount the advantages of those.

Sitting on the sea wall as The Haar Rolls In.

Once again things are light and fresh. This is reminiscent of a freshly-starched shirt, then meadow flowers next to the sea. There’s a slight tension in here with unripe pineapple, although water allows some oils (and a not unpleasant note of paraffin) to seep through resulting in a hint of there being more body.

There’s quite a change from the nose with a light, nutty undertow, then gomme-like sweetness followed by a mouth-freshening effect, akin to Arm & Hammer toothpaste mixed with seaside rock. Water shows more perfume and there’s that zest and minerality balancing the pillowy mid-palate.

Crisp with brisk acidity.

Quite a transformation between nose and mouth, but again very distillery-forward.

So Fresh, So Clean.

An intriguing, oily, pine sap element mixed with furniture polish (or more precisely, yellow dusters impregnated with the same) and some lightly floral element that moves into boiled sweets. Things remain bright with touches of light vanillin and a bready aspect. The citrus here is grapefruit/yuzu and with water you pick up a long-discarded banana skin, more oak and a dab of Vaseline.

There’s (slightly) more oak in here, giving the initial impression of a pear panna cotta with custard on the side and a touch of sultana. This is quickly balanced by that zingy acidity which cuts through this softness, allowing the more fragrant elements to come into play. Things lighten with water, so be careful not to drown it. There’s a restraint here.

The creamy elements return, along with white chocolate and a sprinkle of salt.

Balanced, clean, easily approachable. It achieves exactly what it sets out to do.

Gently getting used to the Ebb and Flow.

A range of confectionary here: pineapple cubes, rosy apples, tangerine and powdered ginger. While things remain refreshing, there’s a sense of greater maturity and, once again, a light touch on the oak. In time there’s the nose prickle of kombucha, lemon verbena and a little more cask influence with coconut and some dried fruit. Water dries things slightly, adding in a mirin-like note, some frangipane tart and just a hint of wax.

A fat, lightly oily palate. There’s perhaps no surprise that this is the chewiest of the new OP range. There’s a little bit of hazelnut in there along with more spiciness and just a hint of raisin adding more weight.

A jag of acid, then firming up with touches of dried fruit.

Once again well balanced with a focus on the distillery, not the oak. There’s a clear progression in the range. All are highly approachable.

Joining in with a Drinking Song.

An elegantly mature mix of waxed paper, ripening cheese, estery tropical fruits and wholly integrated smoke. Layered, mature and relaxed. In time, you get waxed jacket, scented wood, heather bells and honey, with old pear and apple peel. After that comes barbecued chicken dripping with juices and always the fragrant smoke. Finally, you move into the depths of an old-growth forest, while with water you can pick out a mix of sandalwood incense and myrrh (how appropriate), refined smoke and more of that meaty undertow.

The smoke rises gently from its mossy bed, scented and also more phenolic (creosote, hot tar, and peat reek) before the fruits come through, mixing the dark and the peachy. Multi-dimensional. I’d leave water on the side: while its addition adds a more medicinal element to the mix, there’s a drier quality and a slight loss of complexity.

Long, slightly oily, smoked.

There’s no sense of things being forced here, just nature being allowed to gently take its course. What a lovely way to end the year.

Sitting by a River in the Pines.