Batch 199

Hot and boldly assertive, with a mix of smoke and charred wood (spent bonfire), then barley sugar and crunchy chocolate, with a slightly oily undertow. A little blunt. Water accentuates that oiliness and brings out more scented qualities and a hint of apple and rhubarb pie (overfired), before the sensation of a bonfire in a timber yard returns.

Hot, and then the smoke belts out alongside a leatheriness. The power of the oak and the smoke gives any sweetness little room to breathe. Water brings out some pepper and there’s touches of red fruit at the back, while the foreground is dominated by charred red peppers on a dry hot plate.

Alcohol comes through.

A fiery, punchy, smoky whisky that’s weirdly like a lot of smoky whiskies from Australia. There’s a lack of balance here. Trying a little too hard for me.

And so we head Into the Void.

Oaky, but peachy as well. Initially, it’s almost Cognac-like with golden syrup, a little hint of pomegranate seed, cooked apricot, coconut, nutmeg and a sprinkling of Sugar Puffs. Clearly mature. In time, there’s some peach flesh and dried orange peel. With water added you can see the richness that’s been added by time, with a burst of spice, caramel toffee ice cream and sweet and syrupy fruits. Delicious.

A soft, very sweet and syrupy start, with some fresh tangerine on the very tip, and then thickens out into Frosties, juicy, honeyed, almost rummy tropical fruits, before it dries out a little at the back. Again, water shows its mature depth alongside a light grip of toasty oak, sweet spices and more of the light caramel.

Bright and fragrant.

A pretty classically-framed old grain, with a sense of sweetness and oak, while throwing sidelong glances to other spirts. Warm and gentle.

Takes you into a world of Easy Living.

This is more on the leafy, citric side, with some honeycomb chocolate (Crunchie bar) and firm, yet sweet, wood. In time a more waxy heat (warm massage oil) comes over, along with juicy fruits. As with the Cameronbridge, a drop of water reveals its mature depths: baked, sweet orchard fruits and a sense of weight. There’s some darker qualities in here (and some Turkish Delight).

As thick as the Cameronbridge, but with more blackcurrant syrup. It’s more firmly structured and has some grip, with light sandalwood, and then starts to dry down from the mid-palate onwards – albeit with some Canadian-esque fatness, light milk chocolate and citrus oils. Just as it seems to relax and open into more oxidised elements, it fades quite dramatically. With water it becomes more musky and mysterious, with a thick oiliness up front.

Short. Dries quickly.

A lovely nose but falters on the back palate.

A dram which makes you wonder what it would have been like If Bach Had Been a Beekeeper.

Aromatic with a thick, lusciously perfumed sweetness, masses of quince (tea/membrillo), medlar, floral honey and then mead. An astonishing concentration that brings to mind old Sauternes with a touch of Vin Santo. In time (and with a drop of water) you get mint chocolate and things get waxier.

As with the Cameronbridge, now the sense of time is revealed. The oak is there alongside the scents of dunnage and autumnal earth. Fruits appear at the start, then hang back a little, their sweetness masked by the oak and a cocktail bitters-like quality that adds a slight astringency.

A touch of smoke (burning coal?) and calamus-accented bittering agents.

The nose is astonishing but the palate is more fragile than you might expect.

Time the Conqueror.

Very Arran. Citrus up front: zesty sweet orange, tangerine, light grapefruit, some guava and pineapple, and then lilac blossom, sweet pea and light Oolong tea. Altogether rather lovely. In time there’s crisp green apple, cinnamon bread and balancing notes of light cereal and oak. Water brings out tarte tatin, more of the orange juice, some pancake batter and finally spiced apple juice.

A gentle, soft start, albeit with a little powdery quality before you get set honey, ginger, squishy citrus elements and some crème caramel. You’re more aware of the oak now adding light cedar touches. Water adds more brightness: lemon and grapefruit at first, before the mature ripe fruits show.

Light, then some macadamia nut.

A delicious, fruity, citric summer dram. It maybe needs a little more weight in the middle of the tongue, but that’s quibbling.

Playing among the Marigolds and Tangerines.

There’s some of the distillery’s roasted weight here, and also a slightly nutty element: peanut butter and cashew. Slightly plain and still, and oddly green around the edges: linseed oil, green almond and grass. In time there’s a slight metallic quality. With water you get unripe citrus.

Things here are considerably softer than the needling nose. There’s a generous solidity which starts with coffee creamer but then moves to heavy honey and a light amber malt quality in the centre. Things do dry from the mid-palate onwards, becoming spicier (almost peppery) while water brings back that green apple element, and more wood. It gets more metallic in time.

Spicy, with red liquorice and oak.

You can see how this would work in a blend; some freshness to the nose, some substance to the palate. But it’s exposed when on its own.

Another old grain? Yes but Sugar Pie, I’m Not the Same.