Batch 209: Daftmill 2006 single casks

The punchiest of the group in terms of nose burn, it opens with an aroma reminiscent of fresh pizza dough, then comes barley straw with accompanying powdery florals. It is, however, slightly hard to get into. Water does bring some cinnamon and nutmeg into play, along with boiled sweets and jasmine, but it also retains the dry chalkiness.

It ripples gently through the mouth, while also possessing an intense, lightly acidic quality that indicates its relative youth. You get hints of the creaminess given by the first-fill ex-Bourbon cask, as well as some rhubarb and the signature elderflower element, but the alcohol is blurring things. Water does help to ease the tension, but it remains flinty and on the cusp of full integration.

Lightly nutty.

There’s some presence here, but it’s less well-defined than the others, remaining in a state of slightly confused adolescence.

Drawn Like Bees to Foxglove.

Woah! Heavily Sherried and robust, this is all walnut and dense figs, fruit paste, treacle toffee, rum-and-raisin ice cream, and an almost smoky depth that moves to balsamic and lightly oxidised fruits. A drop or two of water makes it sweeter, with some over-stewed marmalade and a whiff of mature nutty cheese. Big and glossy.

It has a big, almost burnt quality that slots nicely into the molasses-like bitterness. In time you can pick out the start of a leathery quality. The tannins already hold quite a grip, but the fruits are sweet and concentrated. It’s slightly off-dry, but with a firm control.

Long; raisin and prune.

If you like Sherried whiskies, then this is spot-on. It’s hard to tell it is Daftmill, though.

Sh- Sh-Sh- Sherry Bomb!

Complex and gentle, starting bright and zingy with light fennel, lemon verbena and grapefruit, then carnation, elderflower (and nettle) cordials, before it sweetens into ripe banana with brown sugar. There are some tertiary aromas here: vetiver and scented wood. When diluted, things become more scented with those drowsy florals and camomile, fresh peach and some white chocolate Magnum.

Has a satiny texture alongside some perky red fruits (and unripe strawberry), William pear, the elderflower and (retronasally) a bouquet of fresh rose and jasmine. It’s retained some of the light citrus, while the oak has moved into cassia, dry grass and tobacco, adding discreet structure. It floods the palate when water is added, thickening in the centre, adding in hazelnut, runny toffee, light fruits and flowers. Elegant and balanced.

Rosemary, banana and light coconut.

This is Daftmill moving into a new phase of its maturity, becoming layered, longer and more complex – but without losing its character.

A sunset walk through the fields with the King of the Barley.

The first whiff is estery, with a tiny hint of acetone, then something akin to cold butter and apricot jam on fresh baguette, before it shifts into the world of florals: freesia, nemesia, candied rose petal, then elderflower blossom. It seems delicate, but in the background is some subtle vanilla ice cream and lemon zest. Add a little water and it becomes like fragrant sunshine, along with jasmine, pineapple, lemon leaf, pine needles, then daffodil, some camomile and, finally, mixed fragrant herbs (rosemary/oregano).

A soft, silky start with a chewy mid-palate accompanied by light pricks of fresh ginger, then the sweet floral lift. Precise, with lovely balance; some soft marshmallow, then pink fruits and the heady, herby, floral elements. Gentle, but has real presence. It’s best with water on the side.

Zingy acidity, then a gentle fade.

A gentle whisper in the ear and a compellingly complex nose. One of those rare whiskies which manages to be delicate, yet with presence.

As gossamer-light as a Summertyme Beeswing.

It starts with a slightly dry note, with cereal, oak and hints of vetiver, fresh white bread, then some pear and apple blossom. It jumps around a little between firm, dry oak and pine sap, then the reassuring softness of bread-and-butter pudding, then switching to fruit syrups, finishing off with light cereal and straw. Water pulls things closer together with an aroma of undiluted lemon barley water.

There’s some barley sugar in here, some tangerine, then that floral/ginger combination, along with hot sawdust and an aroma that brings to mind adobe houses on the side of a hot, dusty road (so not a lot like the Lowlands of Fife). It needs water added before you get ripe, soft fruits and the floral elements, but overall things remain crisp with a slight tension, similar to cask #21.

Light oak with zingy acids.

Soft, yet with a structural dryness that gives it some attitude. Good, but the whisky and the cask are still feeling each other out.

Listening to A Prairie Tale.

More cask influence here (it’s another first-fill ex-Bourbon), giving a rounded, clotted cream/Greek yoghurt sweetness, along with peach purée and caramel ice cream. Water makes it slightly drier, but adds in the now familiar fragrance – this time with added (old) Scots pine forest, mace, camomile, mashed banana, then finally some almond.

Quite full and mouth-coating, with an excellent, soft feel. The sweet spices are upfront, giving an almost ginger-ale-like quality. The wood is present without being overly dominant: there’s even a tiny hint of char. Water brightens things, upping the spices, adding lemon zest but without losing the thick, buttery quality.

Fresh cherry, peach stone and ginger.

Slightly more cask-driven, but not to the detriment of distillery character. One for American oak fans, but still balanced and gentle. All of these show a great distillery hitting its straps. Now: whoever buys a bottle, please open it and share.

Hold that Yellow Flower under your chin and let’s see what it tells us…