Batch 147

Ripe and mature oak tones kick things off, with added cedar elements, a whiff of Terre d’Hermès, vetiver, some nuts and a sweetening, honeycomb element that’s surprising for the Ben. Water brings the American oak front and centre, stirring in butterscotch and runny caramel.

For all of the expressiveness of the nose, this is really a palate whisky. It’s rounded and sweet to start with, before the Ben’s earthy power begins to exert itself: a light meaty element, a hint of smoke/ char, leather, calamus, liquorice and pumpernickel bread. That said, it remains soft, gentle and slightly chewy. In time, and towards the back, the nuts hinted at on the nose emerge, now more pecan-like. There is also a chewiness given by dried soft fruits. Though water softens things again, there’s a pleasing muscularity to this.

Light clove, black cherry, deep and spicy.

Not for the only time this week, here is a whisky with presence, and another example of how Benrinnes is one of those distilleries which seems to distil its environment – wild, windy moors, but bathed in sunlight. Recommended.

And beauty reigns.

Dave Broom

While it’s slightly closed initially, there’s a feeling of being well-covered, with an added touch of smoke (wood burner/ smouldering sandalwood incense). As it opens, the mature Sherried elements hit home first: shoe polish, roasted tea, raisin, as well with time some pea and ham soup, then more overt, thick, brown Sherry. This then steadily eases its way into peach, creamy coffee icing and and Walnut Whip, before black fruits add depth while pot-pourri and orange peel deal with the top notes. It’s not too hot, though if you want more smoke, then just add water. Balanced and complex.

There’s some heat in here, but though it has a chilli-like bite, it’s controlled burn and the smoke which comes over in the mid-palate is well-controlled too. As is common with Benromach, there’s an oily, older Speyside texture, with just a little tightening of tannins in the centre, balanced by dried fruit, that burst of citrus, but even at this strength it’s surprisingly easy to drink. In fact I’m not convinced that the addition of water is particularly revelatory, though it does add some vanilla pod and treacle toffee elements.

Walker’s Ginger Royals (chocolate-covered ginger biscuits).

Benromach is 20 years old? That makes me feel my age! It’s a distillery which needs time or active wood (here first-fill ex-Sherry and ex-Bourbon) to achieve a perfect balance and, while the smoke might be low for some, for me it shows better integration than the youngest expressions. A rightful celebration.

Celebrate! Let the Bells Ring.

Dave Broom

A resonant mix of rich, stewed red and black fruits (hawthorn and bramble jam), overlaid with some varnish, mandarin, nutmeg, red cherry and polish. There’s light heat and slightly nutty, oxidised elements (sultana and sweet date), before dried apricot begins to emerge, adding a Cognac-esque quality. Water is needed to reveal the distillery character fully, with the rosin-like elements seen on the neat nose moving into the background and a mix of almost smoky tropical fruits beginning to emerge. In time it gets waxy and more spiced, with some orange pekoe tea elements. Fascinating.

Thick and layered, with an instant, full-blooded mix of balanced bitterness, roasting spices, light coffee and a fleeting touch of sage before the fruits begin to pull through, moving into sultana and orchard fruits. It pushes out in all directions: bitter, sweet, tannic, fruity and fragrant, yet somehow a balance is struck. When water is added, the red fruits re-emerge with added raspberries, a touch of marzipan (cherry stone), then clove and those tropical fruits, but always with a slight spike of heat.

Huge. Allspice, clove, Seville orange and a little menthol; even a charred element.

Glen Elgin turned up to 11. A first-fill Sherry cask, but it’s not a Sherried whisky as you might understand the term. Not a bad way to kick off the new-look Connoisseur’s Choice range. Available globally (bar the US).

As necessary as Vitamin C.

Dave Broom

A fresh and slightly dry start with some parchment elements, and then, stealthily, a heavy floral aroma like bluebell woods begins to rise. There’s some mashed sweet potato and a whiff of almond essence and, finally, that GlenAllachie element of scented plum/ blueberry. The woodsy note continues as the sweet oak begins to finally come through, eventually becoming the dominant player. Water brings out a herbal note, while underneath there is more crème brûlée, banana and cinnamon. A grower.

Rounded and quite chewy, with immediate creaminess (crème caramel) and a sprinkle of hazelnut. The mid-palate has a silky, unctuous quality that seems to take a further step down into the tongue as it develops, adding in melting white chocolate, those bananas once more and some apricot. Water adds in coconut cream.

Cinnamon toast.

There’s great balance here, with the sweet cask elements matched by an equally sweet distillate. Worth a look.

Cinnamon Girl.

Dave Broom

Distinctly rounder and richer than The Glenlivet Founder’s Reserve, with a French country kitchen vibe. Hazelnut, almond and toasted French oak right at the fore, but there’s depth in swathes of cooked orchard fruit, sultanas, blackberry and a distinct pepperiness. A dusty, malty quality saunters above the lot – bready almost. The nose becomes more floral with water, and Glenlivet’s signature green apple quality pokes through.

There are dark fruits – berry pie filling – with sultanas, raisins, figs and orange zest, akin to a bag of dried fruit mix. Some spice builds in the middle, but is that the impact of enthusiastic French oak or a sign of zingy youthfulness? Dark chocolate nibs reveal as the spice subsides.

Nutty, fruity and peppery, like a youthful Shiraz.

The Captain is a fruitier, richer guise for The Glenlivet, designed to sit above Founder’s Reserve. Also no age statement, and there’s a distinct youthfulness behind the Cognac finish’s winey influence. An easy drinker.

The Captain stares out across the Charente vineyards from the Palace balcony.

Becky Paskin

Massively resinous, like being tangled in blackberry bushes in an old-growth forest in autumn. There’s intense spice, caramelised ginger and a heady perfume that then builds in sweet leather (shoeshine stand), before an almost meaty underpinning (pigeon in black fruits) gives even greater grunt. Finally, there’s some malt. It’s all so sweet that, amazingly, there’s no sense of its ferocious strength. Water continues in this vein, albeit with an extra wild foxiness pulling out more sap and oils.

That resinous element continues, with raisins and figs widening into sun-dried tomato, sweet date and Amarone. As it continues to open, so things move into the world of high-cocoa chocolate and raspberry. The tannins are supple and, while it’s punchy, it’s not unbalanced or overtly hot. The heat only comes through at the end. This slightly ludicrous impact is dulled with water, with the tannins being upped slightly and a new, earthy, cumin-accented spiciness.

Chocolate and dried fruits return.

A monster of a dram and at a juicy price for the quality. Seek it out. (Oh, and it’s pronounced Dal-Be-Alley, by the way.)

Head along to your local whisky Dealer.

Dave Broom