-
- Price band
-
£ £ £ £ £
- ABV
- 55.7%
- Production type
- Single malt whisky
- Region
- Speyside
- Flavour camp
- Fruity & Spicy
- Nose
Full-bodied, mature yet graceful. There’s a distinct oiliness to begin with sitting alongside cedar/hinoki, light incense and a little dried apricot. A green, herbal element (chervil and sweet cicely) then lifts off, before we bed down in wax polish, red apples and soft orchard fruit. The richness of age is on show here – beautifully balanced, layered and complex. It encourages watering so it can show off more resinous elements. Savoury, exotic, with scented woods. Sophisticated.
- Palate
There seems to be a tickle of smoke, but the palate is dominated by super-ripe fruits – both hedgerow and tropical. There’s light grip but the waxiness keeps any tannic attack well at bay. As with the nose, water is welcome, adding a further dimension and an increase in spice.
- Finish
Ripe tropical fruits with the slight dustiness of age – and a hint of wood ash. Remains highly complex.
- Conclusion
Some (but not many) old whiskies take you into a different flavour world. This has that quality. That’s what 46 years in refill can do. Relaxed, complex, layered.
- Right place, right time
Night time, sprinkled by Stardust…
- Price band
-
£ £ £ £ £
- ABV
- 48.2%
- Production type
- Single malt whisky
- Region
- Highland
- Flavour camp
- Rich & Round
- Nose
The meatiest GlenDronach I’ve had for a while – a Maillard reaction in a glass. Initially, you pick up the richer elements: heavy treacle, barley miso, charred red pepper, Darjeeling tea, roasted chestnut and almond. Then comes fruit: damson, sultana, a lift of apple syrup, and finally spices: star anise, five spice. Water pushes the fruits forward with a welcoming touch of Sherried funk.
- Palate
Initially it’s drier with more grunt and structure than the nose suggests, maxing out on the ‘Dronach mix of earth, sootiness, cocoa nibs and Armagnac-like pruniness. By the mid-palate though the black and purple fruits come through. Water both adds length and softens the tannins, re-establishing a balance by bringing out those dense, dark fruits and some orange peel.
- Finish
Powerful and lightly tannic.
- Conclusion
A highly rewarding, meaty offering.
- Right place, right time
Where the mood is Indigo…
- Price band
-
£ £ £ £ £
- ABV
- 48%
- Production type
- Single malt whisky
- Region
- Highland
- Flavour camp
- Rich & Round
- Nose
Earthy, dunnage notes backed with tobacco (rough shag) then some spent firework, bourbon biscuit, chocolate, coffee grounds and a little malt extract. When diluted you can get the maltiness of Assam tea, then a hint of walnut, date, raisin and sweeter fruits.
- Palate
Dried fruit to start: all fig and sultana cake, then comes a return of the chocolate. By the middle of the tongue you’re getting peanut brittle and, retronasally, the scent of a just-fired shotgun. Water does improve things considerably as a gentle sweetness more in alignment with the distillery character now begins to come through, alongside blackcurrant and toffee.
- Finish
Dry. Roasted spices.
- Conclusion
For those who like things cask forward.
- Right place, right time
There’s an ominous sense of dread as we enter the Danger Zone.
Available to buy from The Whisky Exchange. It may also be stocked by these other retailers.- Price band
-
£ £ £ £ £
- ABV
- 61%
- Production type
- Single grain whisky
- Region
- Lowland
- Flavour camp
- Rich & Round
- Nose
Dark as pitch. Woodpile, spent charcoal, liquorice allsorts and a struck match. In time, some charred elements and autumn woods. With water, there’s some violet root, old briefcase and the sensation that you are in the back of an old wardrobe. Steadily builds a mix of oak essence and flat cola.
- Palate
Thick and treacley on the tongue, with some sweet raisin in the centre, then liquorice root and bitter molasses. Water brings out some Tunes cherry menthols, cherry cola, sarsaparilla and a growing astringency.
- Finish
Iron, blood, coffee. Bitter.
- Conclusion
Of interest, due to it being a Sherry cask-aged grain, and while some might like its impact, I can’t see the distillery for the wood.
- Right place, right time
Gazing around we realise we’re Lost in Space…
- Price band
-
£ £ £ £ £
- ABV
- 56.8%
- Production type
- Single malt whisky
- Region
- Islay
- Flavour camp
- Smoky & Peaty
- Nose
Complex from the off, with highly concentrated sweetness. The sweet/bitter notes of freshly-made tangerine marmalade contrasts with dried lavender, blueberry jam, then salted caramel toffee. Steadily, the smoke asserts itself: hickory, cigar box and sandalwood incense, or, if you prefer, eating smoked oysters and brown bread beside a beach bonfire. Water brings out a light waxiness, vanilla, some mead/metheglin, barbecued pineapple, smoky grist and an increase in the scented elements, all backed with characteristic sweet grassiness/cow’s breath.
- Palate
The smoke is totally integrated, adding a little dry touch to balance the soft honeyed fruits, and adding accents to the scented, herbal notes of wild mint and sage. All pool (and pull) together in the middle of the tongue, building a chewy feel before some heat kicks in alongside a whiff of burning wool. Water brings the sweetness further out, adding in some goji berry and tart fruits. As on the nose, the waxed leather gives a sense of a deeper maturity than you might expect from a 10-year-old. Though dilution means you lose a little of the feel, you do get more smoke, so take your pick.
- Finish
Starts flinty, then there’s smoke, oak tones, pipe tobacco, light cereal, sweet fruits and finally, camphor.
- Conclusion
Relaxed and confident with just enough hot embers and smoke to remind you it retains an element of danger. Excellent, and marked in its competitive set.
- Right place, right time
We have become a Mysterious Traveler.
Available to buy from The Whisky Shop. It may also be stocked by these other retailers.- Price band
-
£ £ £ £ £
- ABV
- 52.5%
- Production type
- Single malt whisky
- Region
- Lowland
- Flavour camp
- Fragrant & Floral
- Nose
Light, gentle yet clearly mature. Castor oil, pears poached in white Burgundy, then a hint of vanilla, white peach purée, cut flowers and sweet spice. The impression is of utter purity of character, with a growing tropical fruit element: mango juice, green banana and sweet jellied fruits. Water firms it up slightly, adding a rustle of dry leaves, then some strawberry and Milky Bar.
- Palate
Remarkably thick on the tongue, with light cream and a bright, zesty, orange-accented acidity. The ripe, tropical fruits unfold fully in the middle, along with cinnamon sprinkled on hot pancakes. The spiciness has a slight needling quality, so add water. The texture isn’t diminished by water. If anything, you get more cream and fruit syrups.
- Finish
Lightly floral and still thick with that hot spicy attack.
- Conclusion
The third in what will build to a seven-strong series from the soon-to-be revived Lowland distillery. Jealousy should only emerge if someone with a bottle refuses to share. Utterly gorgeous.
- Right place, right time
Returning home with Rosy Steps to greet the dawn.
Dave Broom runs the gamut of Scotch whisky styles this week: from a light oak influence to hefty Sherry, unpeated to smoky, both malt and grain, and, if regions are your thing, Lowlands to Highlands, Speyside and Islay.
The tasting kicks off in Speyside, with a dram of Benromach’s ‘full-bodied’ 1972 vintage, one of two new releases in the distillery’s Heritage collection. Matured in a single American oak hogshead for 46 years, Broom says the whisky has that rare ability to ‘take you into a different flavour world’.
Moving eastward beyond the Speyside border, GlenDronach’s exclusively Sherried 25-year-old malt delivers a ‘meaty’ punch, and proves a highly rewarding if slightly dry whisky, concludes Broom.
The first in a new series for Glengoyne, Legacy: Chapter One is a heavily Sherried malt brimming with dried fruit and chocolate that’s perfect for those who prefer their whiskies cask forward.
Things take a dark turn with a 28-year-old single grain from North British, matured in Sherry casks and bottled by Gordon & MacPhail. It’s a rarity to see grain matured in Sherry, but despite some thick, mentholic sweetness, Broom ‘can’t see the distillery for the wood’.
Skipping over to Islay for the much-anticipated fourth expression in Bruichladdich’s Octomore 09 series – the 10-year-old Dialogos. It’s a complex drop, both ‘relaxed and confident’, with a ‘sense of deeper maturity’ than you’d expect for a whisky of its age.
Back to the Lowlands for the third edition in Elixir Distillers’ Rosebank Roses collection, a 21-year-old single malt with a fruity, floral and creamy palate that Broom describes as ‘utterly gorgeous’.
The playlist is equally wide-ranging this week, taking us on a journey through the genres from jazz to blues, metal and even opera. Follow the links in Right Place, Right Time.
Overview
- > Benromach 1972, 46 Years Old, Heritage Collection
- > GlenDronach Master Vintage 1993, 25 Years Old
- > Glengoyne Legacy Series, Chapter 1
- > North British 28 Years Old, 1990, Connoisseurs’ Choice (G&M)
- > Octomore 10 Years Old, Dialogos
- > Rosebank 21 Years Old, ‘Jealousy’, Roses Series (Elixir Distillers)